This is a Texas hill country mountain bike trail review by Jeff. He has so much fun playing, that his review posts are somewhat delayed!
My first experience riding Texas was east of Austin at a place called Rocky Hill Ranch. It had rained the day before, so I figured the trails would be well-packed, not dusty, and ready to ride. What was not known was this area is actually low country and my bike went from weighing a trim 27.5 pounds when I started to what seemed like 60 pounds from the sticky, red mud that caked both my wheels and bike while riding a fire connector road to one of the interconnecting trails. I cut that trip short and only did 4 miles as essentially an out and back. Consequently, my first ride out of the gate was not exactly a pleasurable ride, however, I was entertained by the nearby long horns. I am sure that during drier conditions the trail would have been fabulous, but it just didn’t work for me on that day.
My impression of Texas mountain biking changed in a positive way once exposed to the enjoyable riding offered in Texas Hill Country near San Antonio. After stopping at a nearby bike shop (Gotta Ride Bikes), they directed me to two trails which offer the best in the area: Flat Rock Ranch near Comfort, Texas and Madrone Trail overlooking Canyon Lake. Flat Rock Ranch was smooth and flowy, while Madrone Trail was like picking through a rock garden. Let me start with Flat Rock Ranch first.
Getting to Flat Rock Ranch was easy, just off the highway, but you have to eventually drive your car through a gate which keeps the cows corralled. Being from Florida I am not exactly indoctrinated to this type of trail head entrance. After parking my car, I paid the $10.00 fee and proceeded to the west loop. They have about 29 miles of trails, but the western loop was plenty for me getting about 15 miles out of the run. Although the trail was well marked, my Mountain Bike Project App kept me informed of my progress along the way. If you are a traveler and want a rocking app for mountain bike trails around the country, you should download this jewel. Although the first half of the trail was generally a slow and steady ascent up the mountain, the periodic ups and downs during the ascent kept it always interesting. You know the top is near when the tight switch backs start appearing. It gets a little technical going up the switch backs, but it should be a comfort to know the downhill is not far.
Once at the top, get ready for a rocking smooth downhill which seems like it just doesn’t stop. After a couple more climbs it is pretty much downhill all the way to the car. This is an active farm, so don’t be surprised by the cows and horned sheep getting out of your way or observing your progress during the descent. This place would be great for cross country races or endurance events. My mind wanted to continue onto the east loop, but my legs just wouldn’t support that decision. I hear that the east loop is shorter and a little more technical, but likely more of the same.
The Madone trails did not disappoint either. After parking the car, I proceeded into the loop which yielded about 8 miles. Although this loop was much shorter than Flat Rock Ranch, it felt like doing many more miles. As the loop progresses, you are constantly picking a line through the multiple rock gardens, both up and down hills. Although this is not my cup of tea I managed to keep the bike upright and on two wheels most of the time, and can appreciate the technical appeal of this trail. While picking a path through the rock gardens, distractions abound with the marvelous views of Canyon Lake. Half way through I had a magnificent view of the lake and took a much needed break. Eventually you wind back to the car, shocks fully tested. If anything was marginally loose on the bike before, it likely needs some maintenance now.
To the west of the Big Bend National Park is the nearly-as-large Big Bend Ranch State Park. This park has fewer paved roads and is known primarily for its 4 wheel drive “roads” and multi use trails (equestrian, hiking, and mountain biking). Back in the trails you’ll find remnants of mining and ranching structures. There are a few short and easily-accessible hikes to features such as hoodoos, the Rio Grande river, and a closed canyon. Jeff spent several days mountain biking on the trails, but he’ll have to do his own post on that!
The paved road on the south side of the park parallels the Rio Grande River and is a beautiful drive, or motorcycle ride. Driving all the way through to the other side brings you out to the small town of Presidio, Texas. It is known as a border crossing town (accessing the town of Ojinaga, Chihuahua, Mexico) and for frequently being the hottest town in the US during the summer. There’s not much else going on there.
We parked and entered the small border crossing building. The park ranger explained the process, including what we could (and could not) bring back across the border. We could bring handicrafts, but no minerals, animal bones or alcoholic beverages. Since there was no mechanism to collect taxes at this small station, no tequila allowed over the border (except in your stomach!)
Once rowed across, we climbed up the other side, paid the $5 per person round trip fee and were asked if we wanted a ride to the village, about 3/4 mile away. We had the choice of a burro, horse or truck. We could certainly have walked the distance, but hey, how often do you get a chance to ride a burro! We ponied up the $5 each (round trip) and mounted our donkeys, and plodded off on the only road toward the village, led by a guide. Frankly we could have walked faster, but riding a donkey was a whole lot more fun.
We walked through the town, littered with tables full of local handicrafts for sale. We trekked to the nearby hot springs — but had to hastily retreat because the spring was in use as a makeshift bathing facility. I usually enjoy meeting our Mexican neighbors, but not quite that intimately. As we continued, we learned about their clinic and toured the town hotel. It was more like a hostel, but for $20 person, it offered a lodging option. If you missed the 5 pm closing time for the border crossing, you would need it! Our guide’s wife worked at the hotel and just coincidentally had her own collection of handicrafts for sale where I picked up a couple of things (of course).
The Big Bend area of Texas is a vast corner of wilderness where desert meets mountains and the Rio Grande River. The area includes two large parks (Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park) and several small towns to explore. Our RV park was tucked right into the middle of it all.
I haven’t spent much time exploring the desert and was struck with how harsh the environment seems. The sun is intensely hot, making even a cool day seem overly warm. I can’t even imagine how hot the summer would be. Everything growing is spiky and uninviting. Yet, hiding under the spikes is the occasional shy flower. You can see for miles, making distances deceiving. It’s beautiful, but a forbidding beauty. It’s nice to explore and see, but frankly, not someplace I’d want to stay for a long visit.
It amazes me that anything can live successfully in this environment, but wildlife and people do indeed live here. Driving around the park we spied a coyote and then, shortly after, a road runner. Immediately the cartoon theme song jumped into my brain and stayed as an earworm for the rest of the trip. [Road runner … the coyote’s after you. Road runner … if he catches you you’re through!] Now it’s in YOUR brain too! <evil chuckle>
We also caught our first glimpse of a small mammal – the javalina. It looks something like a cross between a feral pig and a guinea pig. I “borrowed” this photo from the national park service website so you can see what it looks like. These tough little guys munch down prickly pear and other spiny vegetation with no problem at all. He scuttled away from us quickly, but I don’t think I would want to tangle with him.
Speaking of oases, the south end of the park includes a small hot spring which bubbles up and over into the Rio Grande. Once a resort, the corralled spring still delights tourists looking for a relaxing dip. I wouldn’t want to test it during the summer, but on a 50-degree day, the 105 degree hot spring was quite inviting.
Summary
The other night I dreamed that I was hired back at Motorola, my workplace of 24 years. I joyfully greeted all of my colleague friends and prepared to jump back into my old role. When I awoke, I wondered why I had dreamed that? I ‘ve been gone from there for over 4 years. We’re on the road, living our new dreams. Why revisit the past?
A day later, this photo popped up on Facebook as a “my memories” photo from 9 years ago of Jeff, our two sons, and good friend Jose. It was taken during our 2008 summer trip to the Smokey mountains – our last as an entire family. After that vacation trip, our older son became busy with summer high school football training and then with college and didn’t accompany us on our Gatlinburg trips. Our younger son went with us one more time, the summer before his life was cut short in that fateful auto accident. I had to wonder – what was the message for me here?
The historic missions were fantastic! I didn’t know (or had forgotten) the impact that the Spanish Catholic missions had on the area. Life for the native Indians was hard and the missions offered food, education and shelter. But in exchange they had to give up their way of life, accept a new religion and pledge fealty to the King of Spain. I’m not sure in the end whether they were better off, or worse. All of the missions are still active Catholic parish churches and admission to the historic sites is free. Free tours are also available at Mission San Jose, the largest and best preserved of the four. We finished up at the Alamo, which was almost a disappointment after seeing the other missions. (At least admission was free there too). But we got to all of them – mission accomplished! (sorry)
One of the very best parts of traveling the country is having the opportunity to visit far-flung friends. We reached out to long-time friends Cheryl and Carlos, who had relocated a couple of years ago from South Florida to Fredericksburg. We were able to connect and spent a wonderful day touring on our motorcycles and exploring historic Fredericksburg and environs. We got to see their new home, catch up on news, and had some great food. Another day they came to our place and we got to show off our beautiful bus, drink wine and grill burgers. What a nice visit we had! It’s wonderful to have a network of friends and family all over this beautiful country.
Summary
Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost 